Page Last Updated : April 19th, 2009
For any successful pack leader, it's important to have a keen understanding of the way your puppy will develop.
Puppyhood is a relatively short stage in your dog's life, but it's also one of the most crucial. The majority of
responsible breeders will wait until a puppy is two months old before allowing you to adopt. These two months allow
the puppy to spend time with its littermates and learn basic social skills. For families who are expecting puppies born
at home, we've put together a handy reference to guide you through what you can expect from the early stages of
development.
Stage 1: Birth - 2 weeks
After an initial gestation period of approximately 2 months, a puppy is born blind and deaf - less developed than a
human baby. This first stage of development is often referred to as "neonatal." For most of this stage, the puppy is
entirely dependent on its mother In addition to their sensory handicap after birth, their movement is severely limited,
they cannot regulate their own body temperature, and they require special stimulation to remove waste products.
They can, however, cry, and the suck reflex is already strong. Smell, touch, and taste are all active and strong.
Within the first week after birth, a puppy will normally double its own weight.
The puppy's ear canals will open right around the 2 week mark, allowing it to hear sounds for the first time. The
sense of hearing will fully develop over the course of the next few stages. Socialization is important at every stage of
a puppy's life, but is perhaps most important during the neonatal period. The puppy will be learning the basics from
its mother and littermates; movement, social etiquette, and most important of all: rules, boundaries, and limitations!
Stage 2: 2 - 4 Weeks
The puppy's eyes will open at or around the beginning of this second stage of development. His new sense of sight
will be limited and very sensitive, so to avoid eye damage, care must be taken to protect him from bright lights.
Despite these limitations, the puppy will now begin to recognize and interact with things in his environment, including
(most importantly!) his mother and littermates. Many experts consider this the "toddler" stage of development as the
puppy becomes more alert and learns to crawl, stand, and ultimately walk. With this new mobility, he will also begin to
attempt to better explore his surroundings.
As the second stage progresses, the puppy's body becomes better at regulating its own temperature. However, he
still depends mostly on his mother and the ambient temperature in the environment to maintain a healthy balance.
Rapid or extreme temperature changes can be harmful to his system. The first teeth emerge during this stage, and
as the puppy learns to lap he will become more comfortable and better equipped to drink milk from a bottle or dish if
necessary rather than relying on his mother as the only source of nourishment. In addition, the puppy's instinct to
relieve himself away from the den will kick in, and he should no longer require any external stimulation to urinate or
move his bowels.
Near the end of the second stage of development, the puppy's sense of hearing continues to improve, and sight and
smell should already be well-developed. The order in which these senses fully mature will continue to inform the way
he experiences the world around him: nose, eyes, and then ears. It's important at this stage to encourage the bond
between the puppy and human beings by exposing the puppy to gentle handling by human caretakers.
Stage 3: 4 - 12 Weeks
Week 4 to week 12 typically comprise the third stage of puppy development. During this stage, the senses begin to
mature and socialization becomes an important part of the puppy's life. It is critical during this key phase that the
puppy be able to interact with other dogs and with people.
For the first few weeks of this phase, it's likely that the only other dogs the puppy will have access to are his mother
and littermates. His normal body temperature should be approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and his system will
begin regulating that temperature naturally. Additionally, the instinct to squat will take over and external stimulation
will no longer be required for the puppy to move his bowels.
Early socialization will manifest as a basic kind of play with the puppy's littermates - wrestling and a reserved play-
biting known as "inhibited bite." This is the way in which the puppy will begin to learn about social structure and pack
ranking. Rules, boundaries, and limitations set by his mother begin to take shape. Physical co-ordination and
eyesight are still not fully developed, but the puppy's mobility will have progressed beyond wiggling, rolling, and
flopping around.
Weeks 5 through 7 are a good time for the puppy to begin his early socialization with people. His sense of hearing
should be well-developed enough to allow the possibility of command conditioning using positive reinforcement, as
well as name recognition - the puppy will begin to respond to the name that his human handlers have chosen for
him. But remember: he will always be animal first, then species, then breed, and THEN name.
The puppy's fear response to sudden startling sights and sounds will begin to emerge at or around this point in his
development, so exposure to any normal household objects and noises and association with positive experiences is
very important. Also, the kind of play that puppy is used to with his littermates, including the "inhibited bite," or
"mouthing," may begin to appear in his interaction with his human handlers. It is crucial to remember that this kind of
behavior can often escalate and lead to dominance or aggression, and should be discouraged.
Stage 3: 4 - 12 Weeks (continued)
Even during this late phase, make sure to stay alert about the possibility of infection. The health of the puppy should
be carefully monitored, as should any and all interaction with human handlers who may pose a risk of communicable
disease. The puppy should receive another worming at this stage, and then regular monthly wormings from this point
on. And you should discuss with your vet inoculations that could help to boost the puppy's immunities. Sometime
around week 6 or 7, the puppy should begin the weaning process, moving from mother�s milk onto formulas and
then ultimately solid foods that his human handlers will provide.
Week 8 is where you can expect to come into your new puppy's life if you have chosen to adopt through a reputable
breeder. Make sure that you coordinate with the breeder and your veterinarian to determine that the puppy has
been wormed prior to the adoption and to find out what shots, if any, the puppy may still need.
Because the puppy has spent his early weeks developing in the company of his mother and his brothers and sisters,
his mental processes should be mature enough to handle the move from the breeder to your home, and he should
be receptive to training. Still, just because your puppy has been socialized doesn't mean he doesn't still need your
guidance from day one! Don't forget to get right to work setting your new pack's rules, boundaries, and limitations
and consistently enforcing them. Your new puppy is easily influenced by your pack leadership, so keep it balanced
and consistent! Housetraining and introduction to the sights and sounds of your puppy's new home should begin
right away. Positive experiences associated with the various new elements of your puppy's life will help ensure a
smooth transition. And don't forget that your puppy is still a social animal! If you have no other dogs or pets, try to
find calm, vaccinated dog pals for him to interact with. This could prevent issues that may arise later on from lack of
socialization.
Stage 4: 3 - 6 Months
Stage 4 begins your puppy's introduction to independence, but may also create some possible frustrating situations
for you. With her senses more or less fully developed, and her improved physical coordination, the puppy is entering
into a phase that is remarkably close to toddlerhood in human beings. Think "terrible twos" on a canine level.
During this stage, the puppy will attempt to determine the social rankings within her new "pack". This may include the
same kind of play-fighting that she engaged in with her brothers and sisters, but now directed at you and the rest of
her new "littermates." In wild packs, these kinds of dominance games serve a vital function. Puppy is testing her
boundaries within her social circle, seeing if she has what it takes to physically challenge her peers and even you,
her pack leader. If you don't step in and discourage this kind of dominance-seeking behavior early on - or, worse
yet, if you allow your puppy to "win" at dominance games such as wrestling or Tug-of-War - it could set the stage for
more serious challenges to your leadership down the road.
Play-biting may also escalate during this stage, and it should be considered vitally important to correct this behavior
rather than allow it to continue. Be sure to correct immediately to allow the puppy to connect the behavior with the
correction, and be consistent!
Between months 4 and 6, you may find your puppy exhibiting signs of a return to the flight phase that she went
through during or around week 8. However, unlike at 8 weeks, when the puppy's flight was fueled by her reaction to
the startling new environment, this new phase will be more closely associated with the independent and rebellious
stage that she's going through. A collar and leash will provide the crucial physical connection between you that can
keep her from bolting when you approach. Do not allow her to roam off leash in any open or highly populated public
area until she demonstrates to you that she is willing to accept your commands. And don't forget your most powerful
tool: your calm-assertive energy and balanced pack leadership!
Stage 4: 3 - 6 Months (continued)
Hide your designer shoes! During stage 4, you can expect your puppy to begin teething, which means that unless
you provide her with suitable chew toys to occupy herself and relieve her discomfort, she is liable to destroy some of
your treasured belongings. Many people take this kind of destructive behavior as a form of "personal" rebellion by
the puppy, but think about it. Doesn't it make sense that the puppy would seek out as attractive items that are most
saturated with your scent? If your puppy does find and mangle a precious possession of yours, DO NOT react with
anger! Remember to maintain balance and provide firm, calm corrections. Once you have corrected your puppy,
immediately provide her with an acceptable substitute to make the connection in her mind. Frozen bones may
provide pain relief for a dog in great discomfort and also a reward for responding to your corrections with calm-
submissive energy.
During this stage, many new owners become concerned by the sight of blood on their new puppy's chew toys. Don't
panic. This is a completely natural part of this phase of the puppy's development as she begins to lose her milk
teeth. Still, if you have persistent concerns, be sure to discuss the matter with your family veterinarian. Ask about
proper dental care - when and how to brush (ideally once a week or more) and which products to use. Certain
products such as raw bones may be perfect both for soothing the dog's chewing instincts and for removing plaque
and tartar buildup around her teeth and gums.
Finally, this stage will usher in the beginnings of sexual maturation in your puppy, which may lead to some extra
frustrations. Marking and scenting can become a problem around the house even if the puppy has been
successfully housebroken. The best and safest way to avoid these problems while simultaneously decreasing the
chances of many future health risks is to have her sterilized if you haven't already done so. Sterilization is a still
debated topic among many dog owners and veterinarians, but most veterinary professionals agree that a safe and
optimal time to have the procedure done is when the puppy is about 6 months old.
Puppyhood is a relatively short stage in your dog's life, but it's also one of the most crucial. The majority of
responsible breeders will wait until a puppy is two months old before allowing you to adopt. These two months allow
the puppy to spend time with its littermates and learn basic social skills. For families who are expecting puppies born
at home, we've put together a handy reference to guide you through what you can expect from the early stages of
development.
Stage 1: Birth - 2 weeks
After an initial gestation period of approximately 2 months, a puppy is born blind and deaf - less developed than a
human baby. This first stage of development is often referred to as "neonatal." For most of this stage, the puppy is
entirely dependent on its mother In addition to their sensory handicap after birth, their movement is severely limited,
they cannot regulate their own body temperature, and they require special stimulation to remove waste products.
They can, however, cry, and the suck reflex is already strong. Smell, touch, and taste are all active and strong.
Within the first week after birth, a puppy will normally double its own weight.
The puppy's ear canals will open right around the 2 week mark, allowing it to hear sounds for the first time. The
sense of hearing will fully develop over the course of the next few stages. Socialization is important at every stage of
a puppy's life, but is perhaps most important during the neonatal period. The puppy will be learning the basics from
its mother and littermates; movement, social etiquette, and most important of all: rules, boundaries, and limitations!
Stage 2: 2 - 4 Weeks
The puppy's eyes will open at or around the beginning of this second stage of development. His new sense of sight
will be limited and very sensitive, so to avoid eye damage, care must be taken to protect him from bright lights.
Despite these limitations, the puppy will now begin to recognize and interact with things in his environment, including
(most importantly!) his mother and littermates. Many experts consider this the "toddler" stage of development as the
puppy becomes more alert and learns to crawl, stand, and ultimately walk. With this new mobility, he will also begin to
attempt to better explore his surroundings.
As the second stage progresses, the puppy's body becomes better at regulating its own temperature. However, he
still depends mostly on his mother and the ambient temperature in the environment to maintain a healthy balance.
Rapid or extreme temperature changes can be harmful to his system. The first teeth emerge during this stage, and
as the puppy learns to lap he will become more comfortable and better equipped to drink milk from a bottle or dish if
necessary rather than relying on his mother as the only source of nourishment. In addition, the puppy's instinct to
relieve himself away from the den will kick in, and he should no longer require any external stimulation to urinate or
move his bowels.
Near the end of the second stage of development, the puppy's sense of hearing continues to improve, and sight and
smell should already be well-developed. The order in which these senses fully mature will continue to inform the way
he experiences the world around him: nose, eyes, and then ears. It's important at this stage to encourage the bond
between the puppy and human beings by exposing the puppy to gentle handling by human caretakers.
Stage 3: 4 - 12 Weeks
Week 4 to week 12 typically comprise the third stage of puppy development. During this stage, the senses begin to
mature and socialization becomes an important part of the puppy's life. It is critical during this key phase that the
puppy be able to interact with other dogs and with people.
For the first few weeks of this phase, it's likely that the only other dogs the puppy will have access to are his mother
and littermates. His normal body temperature should be approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and his system will
begin regulating that temperature naturally. Additionally, the instinct to squat will take over and external stimulation
will no longer be required for the puppy to move his bowels.
Early socialization will manifest as a basic kind of play with the puppy's littermates - wrestling and a reserved play-
biting known as "inhibited bite." This is the way in which the puppy will begin to learn about social structure and pack
ranking. Rules, boundaries, and limitations set by his mother begin to take shape. Physical co-ordination and
eyesight are still not fully developed, but the puppy's mobility will have progressed beyond wiggling, rolling, and
flopping around.
Weeks 5 through 7 are a good time for the puppy to begin his early socialization with people. His sense of hearing
should be well-developed enough to allow the possibility of command conditioning using positive reinforcement, as
well as name recognition - the puppy will begin to respond to the name that his human handlers have chosen for
him. But remember: he will always be animal first, then species, then breed, and THEN name.
The puppy's fear response to sudden startling sights and sounds will begin to emerge at or around this point in his
development, so exposure to any normal household objects and noises and association with positive experiences is
very important. Also, the kind of play that puppy is used to with his littermates, including the "inhibited bite," or
"mouthing," may begin to appear in his interaction with his human handlers. It is crucial to remember that this kind of
behavior can often escalate and lead to dominance or aggression, and should be discouraged.
Stage 3: 4 - 12 Weeks (continued)
Even during this late phase, make sure to stay alert about the possibility of infection. The health of the puppy should
be carefully monitored, as should any and all interaction with human handlers who may pose a risk of communicable
disease. The puppy should receive another worming at this stage, and then regular monthly wormings from this point
on. And you should discuss with your vet inoculations that could help to boost the puppy's immunities. Sometime
around week 6 or 7, the puppy should begin the weaning process, moving from mother�s milk onto formulas and
then ultimately solid foods that his human handlers will provide.
Week 8 is where you can expect to come into your new puppy's life if you have chosen to adopt through a reputable
breeder. Make sure that you coordinate with the breeder and your veterinarian to determine that the puppy has
been wormed prior to the adoption and to find out what shots, if any, the puppy may still need.
Because the puppy has spent his early weeks developing in the company of his mother and his brothers and sisters,
his mental processes should be mature enough to handle the move from the breeder to your home, and he should
be receptive to training. Still, just because your puppy has been socialized doesn't mean he doesn't still need your
guidance from day one! Don't forget to get right to work setting your new pack's rules, boundaries, and limitations
and consistently enforcing them. Your new puppy is easily influenced by your pack leadership, so keep it balanced
and consistent! Housetraining and introduction to the sights and sounds of your puppy's new home should begin
right away. Positive experiences associated with the various new elements of your puppy's life will help ensure a
smooth transition. And don't forget that your puppy is still a social animal! If you have no other dogs or pets, try to
find calm, vaccinated dog pals for him to interact with. This could prevent issues that may arise later on from lack of
socialization.
Stage 4: 3 - 6 Months
Stage 4 begins your puppy's introduction to independence, but may also create some possible frustrating situations
for you. With her senses more or less fully developed, and her improved physical coordination, the puppy is entering
into a phase that is remarkably close to toddlerhood in human beings. Think "terrible twos" on a canine level.
During this stage, the puppy will attempt to determine the social rankings within her new "pack". This may include the
same kind of play-fighting that she engaged in with her brothers and sisters, but now directed at you and the rest of
her new "littermates." In wild packs, these kinds of dominance games serve a vital function. Puppy is testing her
boundaries within her social circle, seeing if she has what it takes to physically challenge her peers and even you,
her pack leader. If you don't step in and discourage this kind of dominance-seeking behavior early on - or, worse
yet, if you allow your puppy to "win" at dominance games such as wrestling or Tug-of-War - it could set the stage for
more serious challenges to your leadership down the road.
Play-biting may also escalate during this stage, and it should be considered vitally important to correct this behavior
rather than allow it to continue. Be sure to correct immediately to allow the puppy to connect the behavior with the
correction, and be consistent!
Between months 4 and 6, you may find your puppy exhibiting signs of a return to the flight phase that she went
through during or around week 8. However, unlike at 8 weeks, when the puppy's flight was fueled by her reaction to
the startling new environment, this new phase will be more closely associated with the independent and rebellious
stage that she's going through. A collar and leash will provide the crucial physical connection between you that can
keep her from bolting when you approach. Do not allow her to roam off leash in any open or highly populated public
area until she demonstrates to you that she is willing to accept your commands. And don't forget your most powerful
tool: your calm-assertive energy and balanced pack leadership!
Stage 4: 3 - 6 Months (continued)
Hide your designer shoes! During stage 4, you can expect your puppy to begin teething, which means that unless
you provide her with suitable chew toys to occupy herself and relieve her discomfort, she is liable to destroy some of
your treasured belongings. Many people take this kind of destructive behavior as a form of "personal" rebellion by
the puppy, but think about it. Doesn't it make sense that the puppy would seek out as attractive items that are most
saturated with your scent? If your puppy does find and mangle a precious possession of yours, DO NOT react with
anger! Remember to maintain balance and provide firm, calm corrections. Once you have corrected your puppy,
immediately provide her with an acceptable substitute to make the connection in her mind. Frozen bones may
provide pain relief for a dog in great discomfort and also a reward for responding to your corrections with calm-
submissive energy.
During this stage, many new owners become concerned by the sight of blood on their new puppy's chew toys. Don't
panic. This is a completely natural part of this phase of the puppy's development as she begins to lose her milk
teeth. Still, if you have persistent concerns, be sure to discuss the matter with your family veterinarian. Ask about
proper dental care - when and how to brush (ideally once a week or more) and which products to use. Certain
products such as raw bones may be perfect both for soothing the dog's chewing instincts and for removing plaque
and tartar buildup around her teeth and gums.
Finally, this stage will usher in the beginnings of sexual maturation in your puppy, which may lead to some extra
frustrations. Marking and scenting can become a problem around the house even if the puppy has been
successfully housebroken. The best and safest way to avoid these problems while simultaneously decreasing the
chances of many future health risks is to have her sterilized if you haven't already done so. Sterilization is a still
debated topic among many dog owners and veterinarians, but most veterinary professionals agree that a safe and
optimal time to have the procedure done is when the puppy is about 6 months old.
PUPPY INFORMATION AND TRAINING
by Cesar Millan
The following information is supplied as a reference. For
more information, feel free to visit: www.cesarmillaninc.com
more information, feel free to visit: www.cesarmillaninc.com
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